How to Make an Upcycled Sketchbook 🌼
Let’s repurpose some fabric scraps & cardstock. For more inspo, see the junk journal I made [See: Junk Journaling Our Engagement Chapter 🫘].
This ‘book board’ came from a set of habit trackers I was gifted last year, and it feels good to reuse them because they’re extremely sturdy pieces of cardboard/cardstock material. In theory, any type of compressed cardboard/stock can be used to make a book cover— even a cereal box.
you’ll need
- thick cardstock for book board
- fabric scraps
- plain sketchbook or printer paper
- decorative sheet of paper
- ruler
- xacto knife
- scissors
- bone folder
- glue stick
- PVA glue
- twine
- awl or pushpin
- curved needle
- felt or fabric pile to use as a cushion
- embroidery thread (optional)
- ribbon (optional)
1
BOOK BASE
Gather your materials together. If you are using a thinner cardstock, it may be useful to glue two pieces together to reinforce their integrity as a book cover. I’m using one thicker board here.
Determine your book size, based on the amount of cardstock you have available. The measurements for my tiny sketchbook came out to: 10½ x 14½ cm for each of the front & back cover panels, and 1½ x 14½ cm for the spine panel.
Using a ruler with a metal-lined edge, cut cardstock with an xacto knife. Press the ruler down once, and direct the blade down the edge multiple times in one direction until you feel the trimmed section come loose. Repeat until all panels are cut out.
For this sketchbook, I added an additional peekaboo effect by carving out a circular hole on the front panel.
2
BOOK CLOTH & COVER ASSEMBLY
Lay your book panels over some scrap fabric of your choice. Trim the fabric so that it’s large enough to fully cover your panels by an additional 1-2 inches on each side. This will become your book cloth.
With the wrong side face up, trace around the panels with tailor’s chalk to mark where you will apply glue to create your book cloth.
Apply 2-4 thin layers of glue inside this marked area, letting each layer dry completely before applying the next. Once your last layer is dry, it should have a slight sheen coating everywhere. If there are any matte spots, it may need another layer to be safe. Let it dry completely.
Next, brush PVA glue onto the book panels and press them into place, one section at a time. Leave about a 2mm gap between each panel to account for the book opening/closing hinge effect.
Stack heavy items on top of your panels to ensure they dry flat. Let dry completely.
Once dry, miter the corners using scissors or a rotary cutter to cut straight across all four corners like so. For the peekaboo effect, use scissors to cut out the center hole and clip notches every ¼ in. Then glue the notches down flush to the inside of the panel.
To add a small embroidery embellishment, use a pushpin or an awl to poke holes into the cover. Push from the front so that the burs stick out on the back side.
Using embroidery thread and a needle, stitch your design. I poked about 8 holes to create a small flower that mimicked my fabric design using french knots and lazy daisy stitches.
Prep another scrap fabric large enough to cover the hole by 1-2 cm. Turn it into book cloth using the glue stick method. Once dry, brush PVA glue to the back of the book panel and lay fabric into place. Use weighted objects to ensure it dries flat.
With a ribbon of your choice, use PVA glue to attach ribbon to the book panels. Let dry completely before picking up.
3
WORKING ON THE INSIDE
To finish off the book cover, cut a decorative paper the length & width of your whole book cover. Trim off 2mm on each side.
This piece will line the inside to hide all the stitches, glue marks, and raw hems.
Brush PVA glue on the inside of the book panel and lay decorative paper into place. Smooth down flat with your fingers. Lightly press into creases with a bone folder.
Use weighted objects to ensure it dries flat. Gently work the book closed once it’s dry.
4
PAGE SIGNATURES
Using dollar store sketchbook paper, cut and fold pages to size. I used 5 sheets of paper folded in half for each signature, so 10 pages per signature.
I cut and folded seven signatures total— the amount that fit comfortably in the spine, making this sketchbook a 70-page book. You may need more or less depending on how big you make yours.
Stacked and ready to be punched.
5
BIND & FINISH
We’re bookbinding with a very simple stitch technique. To make things line up easier, I like to make a spine template using a spare piece of paper, cut to the height/size of the spine. Measure the center point, and two more points equidistant from the center to be your three-hole punch guide.
With a wad of felt underneath the book cover, punch out your first set of three holes (middle, top, and bottom).
Punch out all seven rows of holes (or as many needed for your spine). I used a pushpin to punch from the inside out because it was easier, but would recommend pushing from the outside in to minimize external burs.
Use the spine template to register your signatures. Center the template over each signature crease and puncture the three holes through them.
Bind with embroidery thread or waxed thread and a curved needle, attach each signature using this simple three-hole binding technique.
Now you have an adorable upcycled sketchbook.
I love the idea of sketchbooks as a form of memory keeping and as a way to help slow down and stay present. It lets me practice my skills and capture a sense of place. [See: Making a Sketchbook for the New Year 🫘]
Cheers,
Lina
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